Bikaner : My ancestoral town and the hidden city of Rajasthan

While Bikaner is off the tourist map of most visitors to Rajasthan. But it provides the raw charm of the ancient desert city that no other touristy city does. It has the sophistication of the times and charms of the traditional lifestyles. Tucked away close to the India-Pakistan border, this ancestral home of mine makes you live the history away from the usual museums and in walls of the the narrow, winding lanes of the old city. 

Bikaner was established by Rao Bika of the Rathor clan of Rajputs. He separated from his family and established the city, giving up his claim on the Kingdom of Jodhpur which his father, Rao Jodha had established. Bikaner's architectural identity is defined by the haveli's. These centuries old merchant mansions, carved from flamboyant red sandstone, feature intricate jalis (lattice work). Walking through these narrow lanes, one realises why the city is not on the tourist map. Its not an ancient history to be told via museums but the raw living history. 

Though the haveli's have been declared heritage buildings, many of them have declined due to neglect by the owners or family disputes. Many of the houses were demolished to make way to build houses with a more modern outlook and facilities, some still survive. The main reason is that the original owners like my great grandfather moved out of Bikaner to Calcutta before India got independence. He was inspired by Swadeshi movement(Make in India movement of the day) and setup a hosiery factory in Calcutta. Our family has been there till I decided to move to Bangalore.

The city of Bikaner was build protected by walls and there were gates built by the kings, like Kote Gate, Goga Gate, Sheetla Gate, Jassusar Gate and Nathusar Gate. Even today when I move in and out of Kote Gate or Goga gate, I can feel the change of time in the architecture of the buildings. The ones inside the gate give a glimpse of ancient architecture with building build of red sandstone bricks while those outside are mostly newer buildings. 

The fort of Junagarh stands unique among most forts. Its still privately owned and has been converted into a museum. Unlike many forts, its not build on a hill but on the plain but protected by moats. The kings of Bikaner have been patrons of art and have built the various parts of the fort over generations. Among those, my favorite is Badal Mahal built by Maharaja Dungar Singh. Its walls are painted with blue clouds and a sophisticated system of water channels and air ducts that used natural evaporation to keep the desert heat at bay. Considering that it was built in 1800s, its definitely something of wonder. Besides the usual architectural marvels and paintings, the other most outstanding feature is that all stairs are not equal height, and are just wide enough for just one person. This was slow down the attackers and keep the royalty safe. 

Equally captivating were the experiences at the ICAR horse and camel research centres, offering a glimpse into the traditional animal husbandry that forms the backbone of rural life here. The marwari horses and the different camel breeds is something that you can easily miss if you do not visit this place. And to complete the sense of adventure, a visit to the desert dunes at a local resort was pure magic, a perfect, sandy culmination to the entire Rajasthan experience. Besides the traditional food, they also have traditional dance performances which is something you can remember. 

 

However, the heart of Bikaner beats in its community spirit. The evenings are reserved for the Patas. These aren't just gatherings; they are a living demonstration of community. Neighbors and friends converge, sharing stories, laughter and debating the world of politics(interpersonal, local, national and international), weaving the social fabric tighter. It’s in these moments that you truly understand the authentic, unhurried rhythm of Rajasthani life.

No mention of Bikaner is complete without talking about Bhujia which now has a GI tag. But besides this, we have the Meethi Fini which is a unique soft sweet only available during winter months. During summers you can enjoy the comforting texture of Pandhari Laddu and the refreshing burst of different flavors of Chatta (ice gola) loaded with Rabri. The savory taste of Kachori is something which can be enjoyed throughout the year. I learnt the hard way that if you talk in public about the best place to source Kachori in Bikaner you might start a flame war among people. 

Of course, no visit to an old city is without its challenges. Walking through the older parts of the city reveals the ongoing struggle against infrastructure. The ancient roads are often narrow and congested, and the open sewage system remains a persistent, difficult problem that highlights the gap between historical charm and modern necessity. Newer parts of the city being developed are better. Healthcare and education are areas where Bikaner still needs a lot of improvement. Its still difficult for most to get access to a good qualified doctor for primary healthcare.

Bikaner is more than just a stop on a map, it’s an experience woven from ancient fortresses, ingenious designs, deep-rooted culture, and unparalleled local flavors. It is a quiet, beautiful corner of Rajasthan waiting to be discovered.